Braised pork ragu

Pork makes one of the best ragus - or meaty pasta sauces - of all, slow-cooking to a melting state of collapse without drying out or becoming stringy. For this favourite recipe, based on one of Jamie Oliver's, we cook a soffritto base with rosemary and a few anchovies for depth of flavour, then brown pork shoulder before covering with white wine and crushed tomatoes. Then it's just a matter of waiting for time to weave its dependable magic: when the pork is falling apart and the sauce rich and delicious, we remove the meat and shred it back into the sauce, with a touch of cream to bring it all together. Reheat in a saucepan or microwave, stirring occasionally, until piping hot and serve tossed through ribbon pasta or piled on soft polenta with parmesan, black pepper and a green salad on the side.

Pork, onions, carrots, celery, garlic, anchovies, white wine, flaked chilli, olive oil, tomatoes, rosemary, pancetta, tomato paste, cream, salt. (FISH, MILK)